Pilsner Profile

A Pilsner is a style of beer developed in the town of Plzen (Pilsen) in the Czech Republic in the 1800’s. Also called pilsener or pils. It’s known for its golden color and has become of the most popular styles of beer in the world. The refreshing taste and low bitterness make it a great choice to introduce people into the world of beer.

What makes it a Pilsner?

Pilsners are a type of lager, meaning that they are brewed by lagering. The lagering process means that the beer is fermented for longer at a colder temperature than what is typically used. This typically takes several weeks at near freezing temperatures. The lagering process results in the crisp, refreshing taste that makes lagers so appealing.
Pilsners will be brewed with pilsner malt and lager yeast. Typically, they will use a slightly “spicy” hop. The choice of malt and hops is what makes a pilsner different than other lagers. To brew a Pilsner also requires very soft water, with almost 0 total hardness.

What does a Pilsner Taste Like?

Pilsners are light, refreshing beers. Many people who are only casual beer drinkers describe them as easy to drink, being the choice of many first-time beer drinkers. The hops are commonly floral with a moderate level of bitterness. Enough to taste some bitterness but not overbearing. (25-40 IBU) Pilsners may have a slight spiciness due to the hops selection as well.
Another notable feature of Pilsners is head retention. Pilsners are known to have foam that is a half inch to an inch deep. Creating that typical, beautiful head of foam overtop of the clear, pale beer.

Water Profile for the town of Pilsen

Pilsen has very soft water, which likely lent itself to the creation of the pilsner beer. The Calcium and Magnesium are naturally low, leading to a hardness measurement around 25 ppm.

Water Profile for Pilsners

This is an example of a water profile for a Pilsner, different brewers will use different water profiles based on personal preferences and local water sources. This should be used as a starting point when planning your water chemistry for a Pilsner.
It’s a combination of common recommendations for Pilsners and what the water profile is like for the town of Pilsen.

Calcium: 50 ppm
Magnesium: 0 ppm
Iron: 0 ppm
Sulfate: 0 ppm
Bicarbonate: 0 ppm
Alkalinity: 0 ppm
pH: 7
Chlorine: 0 ppm
Hardness: 0 ppm

Hazy IPA Profile

What is a Hazy IPA?

A Hazy IPA, also known as a NEIPA (New England Indian Pale Ale), is a style of IPA that uses fruit forward hops and is unfiltered and cloudy in appearance.
The style became popular because the fruit forward hops were used to counteract the bitterness of a traditional IPA. Making it popular for anyone who enjoys the taste of an IPA but wanted more of a fruit forward hops profile and a full body. They are often referred to as “juicy.”

What makes a Hazy IPA cloudy?

There are several factors that will contribute to the “hazy” look of a Hazy IPA.

Late Fermentation Hopping: Many brewers will add additional hops late in the fermentation to not only enhance the hops flavor, but also to create that cloudy effect.
Unfiltered: Hazy IPAs are also unfiltered. Typically, brewers will use a filtering process that will remove the particles that cause cloudiness in a beer. Before Hazy IPAs became popular, haze in a beer showed that it had either gone bad, or that it was of low quality. Meaning it was standard practice in commercial beers to filter these out. It did not only affect the visuals but also made the beer have a lighter mouthfeel. But Hazy IPAs intentionally avoid this process or using finings to clarify the beer.
Yeast: When brewing beer, yeast will cause solids to remain in the wort and beer. These solids will cause visual cloudiness and haze which can be seen in a Hazy IPA.

Water Profile for a Hazy IPA

This is an example of a water profile for a Hazy IPA. Different brewers will use different water profiles, and all end up with unique, delicious beers. This should be used as a starting point when planning your water chemistry for a Hazy IPA.

Calcium: 100 ppm
Magnesium: 20 ppm
Iron: 0 ppm
Sulfate: 120 ppm
Bicarbonate: 50 ppm
Alkalinity: 50-100
pH: 6.5 – 8
Total Chlorine: 0 ppm
Hardness: 120

Hefeweizen Profile

What is a Hefeweizen?

A Hefeweizen is a traditional Bavarian style of wheat beer. It directly translates to “yeast wheat beer” which are two of the most distinguishable features of this style of beer.

While the beer industry seems to be more hops focused currently (maybe our team just has an IPA bias), a Hefeweizen gets its prominent flavors from its yeast and the malt. Being fruit forward in taste with minimal bitterness.

It’s known as a hazy but highly drinkable style of beer that is loved by beer enthusiast and casual beer drinkers. Because of the lower bitterness, it’s a great introductory beer once someone is ready to move beyond the mass-produced options you’ll see at the gas station.

What does a Hefeweizen taste like?

One of the defining traits of a Hefeweizen is the taste of bananas. This is because the Bavarian yeast that is used in fermentation produces an ester that is what gives bananas their distinctive flavor.

The wheat and yeast profiles in the Hefeweizen makes the style fruit and spice forward. Besides banana, you can expect clove and some even say “bubblegum” flavor in the beer.

The Hefeweizen will be low bitterness, with more of a focus on the malty, fruit notes of the beer. This makes it a highly enjoyable beer for those who don’t want a bitter style.

How is it brewed?

Hefeweizen is technically a wheat beer, so it must be at least 50% wheat, but typically is made at 60 to 70 percent wheat. The rest will typically be a malted barley.

Picking the right yeast is important to get the traditional Hefeweizen flavor. You’ll want to find something that is defined as a Weizen Ale Yeast. The yeast creates esters that are the same as what are found in bananas. That signature taste will only appear with the right yeast strain.

Hefeweizen will also be an unfiltered brew, meaning that some haze will remain at the end of your fermentation.

Hop varietal should be mild. Hefeweizen are focused on the yeast and wheat so the hops shouldn’t be the primary focus, meaning high bitter hops should be avoided. Traditionally most brewers will use one of the noble hops.

Water Profile for Hefeweizen

Here is an example of a general Hefeweizen water profile. Brewers will adjust based on recipe, style, and personal preference.

One of the main considerations with a Hefeweizen will be low Sulfate levels to not highlight the bitterness of the beer.

Use this as a starting point:

Calcium: 20 ppm

Magnesium: 5 ppm

Iron: 0 ppm

Sulfate: 20 ppm

Bicarbonate: 80 ppm

Total Alkalinity: 70 ppm

Ph: 7

Total Chlorine: 0 ppm

Total Hardness: 70 ppm

Chloride: 40 ppm

Sodium: 20 ppm

Zinc: 0.1 ppm

Potassium: 0.5 ppm

Copper: 0.1 ppm

Sulfate to Chloride Ratio: 0.5

Residual Alkalinity: 50

Brewery Water Test vs. Regular Water Test

When it comes to testing your water, brewers and homeowners are looking for completely different things. Most homeowners care about safety and maybe some aesthetic issues like hardness causing scale on appliances. Brewers care about whether their water will support a healthy mash, clean fermentation, and the right balance of hop bitterness and malt character.

This article breaks down the difference between drinking water test kits and brewing water test kits, and why brewers need a purpose-built solution.

Why Water Matters to Brewers

Water is about 90% of your beer, meaning it’s not something you can ignore.

Your water needs to be free of contaminants like herbicides, heavy metals, and bacteria. But once safety is covered, brewers shift their focus to performance. You’re trying to control mash pH, yeast health, mouthfeel, and hop expression.

Your mineral profile directly affects the mash, how efficiently you extract sugars, and how your finished beer tastes.

Drinking Water Testing Needs

Drinking water test kits are built around health. They’re designed to answer one question: Is this water safe to drink every day?

They usually focus on things like:

Lead
Nitrates
PFAS
Herbicides
Bacteria

There will be some crossover with brewing parameters like hardness, pH, or chlorine. But it’s not for the sake of brewing chemistry, it’s for preventing scale or corrosion in your plumbing and appliances.

The goals are totally different. A homeowner might want soft water to protect a water heater. A brewer might need a certain level of hardness to stabilize mash pH.

So while a drinking water test might give you a few useful numbers, it won’t give you a full brewing profile.

What Brewing Water Test Kits Actually Measure

A real brewing water test needs to cover the minerals that impact mash chemistry and flavor, some of these include:

Calcium
Magnesium
Sulfate
Chloride
Total alkalinity
Total hardness
pH
Total chlorine

Some examples include:

Pilsners need a very soft, low mineral water
West Coast IPAs need higher sulfate for sharper hop bitterness
Malty styles need higher chloride for a fuller mouthfeel

Another key difference: brewing test kits can be used on wort and finished beer. Most drinking water kits are designed for clear potable water and won’t work with alcohol or colored samples.

DIY vs. In-Lab Testing for Brewers

For drinking water, people usually pick either DIY or lab testing based on their budget and what parameters they are wanting to test for.

For brewing you’ll want to use both.

Lab testing gives you the full mineral profile and exact concentrations. That’s what you’ll use to calculate each salt additives.

DIY testing is what you’ll use every time you brew. This can catch sudden changes in water chemistry or something like high chlorine levels that can ruin your beer.

Using both means you get precision and real-time protection.

When to Use a Brewing Water Test Kit

You should be using an in-lab test kit yearly if you are a homebrewer, or quarterly if you are a professional brewery or competition brewer.

You’ll want to use DIY Test Strips every time you brew for homebrewing or professional breweries.

Even small swings in chlorine, alkalinity, or hardness can throw off mash pH or introduce off-flavors. You don’t want to risk having a ruined batch or inconsistent results over something that you can control and test.

For homebrewers, you’re investing hours into a brew day. You don’t want to risk your beer by skipping one easy step.

For professional brewers, consistency is everything. If your flagship beer tastes different from one batch to the next, your customers may go to the competition.

How CraftPro Test Kits Help Brewers

CraftPro Test Kits are built from the ground up for brewers.

You get:

A full brewing mineral panel
Sulfate-to-chloride ratio and residual alkalinity calculations (lab kits)
10 DIY test strips included with every lab kit
The Craft Tracker system to compare your water to style targets and track changes over time

It’s not just a test kit, it’s a water management system designed for brewers.

Conclusion

Drinking water tests tell you if your water is safe. Brewing water tests tell you if your water will make great beer.

If you want repeatable results, dialed-in mash pH, and consistent flavor, you need data that’s specific to brewing.

Order you CraftPro Test Kit Today

FAQ for Brewing Water Test Kits

Can I use a regular drinking water test kit for brewing?

You can use a drinking water test for basic safety checks, but it won’t give you the mineral profile needed to brew consistent beer. Drinking water tests are designed for health standards, not brewing performance.

Do I need to test my water if I use an RO filter?

RO systems need maintenance and can slowly degrade over time. That’s why DIY Test Strips can give you an affordable way to check your filters performance. And occasional Laboratory Testing can show you exactly what is left in your water after filtering. It’s typically not “zero” like you may think.

What’s the most important number for brewers?

There isn’t just one, but residual alkalinity and the sulfate-to-chloride ratio are two of the most useful for predicting mash behavior and flavor balance.

Can You Brew Beer with Softened Water? | Brewing Water Guide

Can You Brew Beer with Softened Water?

Many homebrewers want to brew beer using tap water for convenience. But if your home has a water softener, you might be wondering:

Will softened water ruin your beer, or can you still use it to brew?

The answer depends on your sodium levels, mineral profile, and beer style.

How a Water Softener Changes Your Brewing Wate

Hard water contains high levels of calcium and magnesium. An standard water softener removes these minerals and replaces them with sodium. This is called an Ion-Exchange System.

After softening, your water will typically have:

Lower calcium
Lower magnesium
Higher sodium
Reduced hardness

These changes can affect mash pH, yeast health, and beer flavor.

Is Softened Water Good for Brewing Beer?

Softened water can be used for brewing, but only if the sodium level and mineral content are within acceptable ranges.

Sodium in Brewing Water

Sodium does not usually harm fermentation, but too much can cause:

Salty Beer (No one wants that unless it’s a Gose!)
Harshness when combined with sulfate
Bitter Flavors

Sodium Targets are typically:

0–150 ppm sodium.
A minimum of 50 pmm can enhance flavor in some styles
A maximum of 100 pmm can be used as a safety margin.

If your water tastes salty after softening, that flavor will carry into your finished beer.

For competitive or commercial brewing, testing sodium is essential.

Why Low Calcium and Magnesium Matter

Softened water removes calcium and magnesium that are essential to brewing and controlling mash pH.

Calcium Benefits

Calcium:

Helps control mash pH (it lowers residual alkalinity)

Improves clarity
Enhances finish and mouthfeel

Magnesium Benefits

Magnesium:

Supports yeast nutrition
Helps control mash pH (it lowers residual alkalinity)

Without enough of these minerals, you may experience:

Poor yeast health
Unstable mash pH
Thin or dull flavor profiles
Increased risk of off-flavors

Matching Water Chemistry to Beer Style

Different beer styles require different mineral profiles.

Light lagers → lower residual alkalinity
Hoppy beers → higher sulfate and calcium
Malty styles → balanced chloride and alkalinity

While you may be able to brew your style with incorrect alkalinity and hardness, it will lack some of the distinct flavor and may have off-flavors you didn’t intent. To brew consistently great beer, it’s vital you match water chemistry and style.

How to Test Softened Water for Brewing

The only way to know if softened water is suitable is testing your brewing water profile.

A complete brewing water test should measure:

Sodium
Calcium
Magnesium
Total hardness
Total alkalinity
Residual alkalinity

The CraftPro Brewmaster Test Kit measures all key minerals so you can determine whether your softened water is usable or needs adjustment.

For brew-day consistency, CraftPro Test Strips let you monitor hardness and confirm your softener is performing consistently from batch to batch.

What to Do If Softened Water Isn’t Suitable

If your sodium is too high or your mineral content is too low, you have several options.

Use Reverse Osmosis (RO) Filtration

RO systems can remove sodium and most other minerals, giving you a clean base for building a custom water profile.

Important notes:

RO does not always reduce all minerals to zero
Filter performance declines over time
Periodic testing is recommended, even just DIY Testing to monitor your filter

After RO, you’ll need to add brewing salts to reach your target profile.

Dilute with Distilled or RO Water

Dilution lowers sodium and other concentrations while keeping some original minerals.

This is a cost-effective method for homebrewers who don’t want to fully rebuild their water profile. Click Here to read our article about dilution and learn how to do it for yourself.

Buy Distilled or RO Water

Store-bought distilled or RO water provides a blank slate, allowing you to build a precise water profile for any beer style.

This adds cost but offers maximum control and repeatability.

Can You Brew Great Beer with Softened Water?

Yes, but only if you test and adjust it.

Softened Water depends on your settings and the hardness of the starting water source. But if you monitor it, you can brew great beer with it. Several of our team members have used it in their own homebrewing with success.

It’s important to test:

Sodium level
Calcium and magnesium concentrations
Hardness and alkalinity

Without testing, you’re brewing blind.

Best Practice for Homebrewers

Test your softened water
Compare results to your target beer style
Adjust with dilution, RO, or brewing salts
Monitor hardness regularly for consistency

This ensures repeatable water chemistry and better beer.

FAQ: Brewing with Softened Water

Is softened water bad for homebrewing?

Not necessarily. It can be used if sodium is within range and minerals are adjusted.

What sodium level is too high for brewing beer?

Above 150 ppm can cause salty or harsh flavors.

Do I need calcium in brewing water?

Yes. Calcium helps control mash pH, improves clarity, and supports yeast performance.

Should I use RO water instead of softened water?

RO is often preferred because it gives you full control over your brewing mineral profile.

How do I know if my water is good for brewing?

You need a CraftPro brewing water test kit to measure sodium, hardness, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium.

Metallic or Astringent Beer? It Might Be Iron or Copper in Your Brewing Water

If your beer has a metallic, penny-like, or harsh astringent taste, your recipe and process might not be the problem. One often-overlooked cause is metals in your brewing water, especially iron and copper. Even small amounts of iron and copper can ruin your beer by adding these off flavors.

What Does Metallic or Astringent Beer Taste Like?

The off flavors caused by iron or copper is described as:

Metallic or “blood-like”
Sharp or drying finish
Harsh bitterness that doesn’t quickly fade
Unpleasant mineral aftertaste

These off flavors are often accredited to problems with temperature, bad ingredients, or an off recipe when metals are to blame.

Iron in Brewing Water: Small Amounts, Big Problems

Iron is one of the most problematic contaminants for brewers.

How Iron Affects Beer

Causes metallic off flavors at very low levels
Accelerates oxidation, reducing shelf life
Reacts poorly with hops, creating harsh bitterness

How Much Iron Is Too Much?

Levels as low as 0.03 ppm can cause metallic and harsh flavors.
Above 0.1 ppm, oxidation may happen and lower shelf life of beer.

Iron is especially common in:

Well water
Older municipal systems
buildings with aging iron pipes

Copper in Brewing Water

Copper plays a complex role in brewing, it can be useful in support yeast health but can cause unwanted metallic and astringent flavors even at low levels.

Negative Effects of Copper

Metallic or sharp flavors
Increased oxidation risk
Haze formation in finished beer

Copper often enters brewing water from:

Corroded copper plumbing
Acidic water stripping metal from pipes
Small amount from copper brewing equipment

Why These Issues Are Easy to Miss

Most basic brewing water test kits do not test for iron or copper. Brewers may assume their water is fine because:

Municipal water reports show “safe” levels
Beer issues appear inconsistent or style-dependent
The area is known to have “good” water.

Unfortunately, “safe to drink” does not mean “good for brewing.”

How to Test for Iron and Copper in Brewing Water

Using Craft Pro Test Kits, you can identify Iron and Copper issues in your brewing water with the Brewmaster Test Kit.

It will test for Iron and Copper to detect the causes of these metallic and off flavors in your beer. But it will also detect other issues that can lead to off flavors such as chlorine and zinc. It also will test for pH to ensure your water isn’t too aggressive and pulling metals from your plumbing.

Using an In-Lab Craft Pro Test Kit, you can test either your brewing water, wort, or finished beer to identify when the metals are being introduced in the process.

The Brewmaster Test Kit will also include 10 DIY Test Strips to monitor for Iron every time you brew to ensure there is not a spike in Iron levels.

Fixing Metallic or Astringent Beer Once You Find the Cause

If iron or copper is present, you will likely need to install a filtration system that is rated for your level of metals. By using your Craft Pro Test Kit Report as a starting point, you can work with a filtration professional to figure out which solution is best for you.

Another option that is more popular for homebrewers is to purchase distilled or RO water and to build your water profile from scratch. You will have to calculate mineral and salt additives if you use this method.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can metallic beer flavors come from hops or yeast?
Yes, but iron and copper are among the most common hidden causes, especially when recipes and fermentation are consistent.

Can Iron ruin beer even if your drinking water is safe?
Yes. Levels considered safe for drinking can still ruin beer flavor.

Do municipal water reports show iron and copper accurately?
Not always. Water reports only show concentrations at the city’s water treatment plant, not at your brewery or coming from your pipes.

Can boiling remove iron or copper from water?
No. Boiling concentrates metals rather than removing them.

Final Takeaway

If your beer tastes metallic, harsh, or inexplicably astringent, don’t change your recipe yet. Test your water, especially for iron and copper, and you may uncover the real culprit.

For brewers who want confidence, consistency, and clean flavor, comprehensive brewing water testing makes all the difference.

How Often Should You Test Your Brewing Water?

Water makes up over 90% of beer, directly affecting flavor, clarity, mash efficiency, and fermentation. While most brewers know they should test their water, many aren’t sure how often brewing water needs to be tested. The answer depends on whether you’re a homebrewer or brewing commercially.

Brewing Water Testing for Breweries

For breweries and professional brewers, quarterly laboratory water testing is recommended.

Water chemistry can change seasonally due to rainfall, source blending, and treatment adjustments. These changes can impact key brewing minerals like calcium, magnesium, sulfate, chloride, alkalinity, and pH. Even small shifts can alter beer flavor, clarity, and consistency.

Laboratory testing provides exact mineral concentrations, allowing breweries to maintain consistent recipes and fine-tune salt additions or filtration systems. The Craft Pro Brewmaster Kit tests 15 brewing-critical parameters and includes brewing calculations to help dial in water chemistry with confidence.

Brewing Water Testing for Homebrewers

Homebrewers should perform laboratory water testing once per year to establish a reliable baseline.

Annual testing gives homebrewers the data needed to calculate salt additions and identify potential issues. More frequent testing—such as bi-annual or quarterly—can be helpful for competition brewing or frequent recipe adjustments, but it isn’t required for most homebrewers.

DIY Brewing Water Testing

DIY testing allows brewers to check their water before every brew day.

Test strips are an affordable way to monitor parameters that affect mash and fermentation, including chlorine, pH, alkalinity, and hardness. Craft Pro Test Strips can also detect shifts in minerals like calcium and magnesium. While DIY testing doesn’t replace lab analysis, it’s a valuable tool for ongoing monitoring.

Should You Use Your City’s Water Report?

City water reports (CCRs) are not reliable for brewing water calculations. They reflect water quality at the treatment plant—not at your tap—and often report ranges instead of exact values. For accurate brewing adjustments, direct testing is always the better option.

Final Thoughts

Consistent beer starts with consistent water. Breweries should test brewing water quarterly, while homebrewers typically only need yearly laboratory testing supported by DIY checks. Understanding how often to test your brewing water helps you avoid flavor surprises and brew better beer every time.

Stout Water Profile

What is a Stout?

A stout is a dark, roasted style of beer that originated in the United Kingdom. In the UK, there was a profession known as a porter who would consume dark, strong brown beers that commonly became known as porters.

The highest alcohol porters eventually became known as stouts, due to their “stout” or strong flavor and ABV. As the Stout became a more popular style of beer the meaning changed from only meaning high alcohol content to having intense flavors and a darker color.

Stouts are a class of porter. Meaning all stouts are porters but not all porters are stouts.

Over the years there have been several variations of stouts such as imperial, oatmeal, and milk stouts. Many modern stouts have additional flavoring such as coffee, chocolate, or peanut butter. Since Craft Pro Test Kits is based in southern Indiana on the Kentucky boarder, it’s common to see stouts aged in bourbon barrels in this region.

What Makes it a Stout?

One of the defining traits of a stout is using roasted barley. These grains give stouts their signature dark color, coffee-like bitterness, and rich, toasty complexity.

Hops do affect stout flavor profile but they are just a supporting role in the style. Typically adding some slight earthy notes to the beer.

Typically, ale yeast is used for stouts. If you are brewing a high alcohol stout it’s important to pick a yeast that has higher alcohol content.

Traditional stout-brewing cities (like Dublin) have hard water, which help balance the acidity of roasted grains.

Key elements that make a beer a stout:

Use of roasted malts or unmalted roasted barley
Ale fermentation at warmer temperatures
Higher water alkalinity to buffer acidic grains
A fuller, rounder mouthfeel than pale ales or lagers

What Does a Stout Taste Like?

Stouts are bold, dark, and malty. The flavor can vary by subtype, but most stouts feature:

Roasted coffee and chocolate notes
Dark caramel and toasted grain flavors
A subtle sweetness depending on the specific style
Low hop bitterness and more malt forward.

Water Profile for Stouts

Here is an example of a general stout water profile. Brewers will adjust based on recipe, style (dry, sweet, oatmeal, imperial), and personal preference. Use this as a starting point:

Calcium: 120 ppm

Magnesium: 5 ppm

Iron: 0 ppm

Sulfate: 60 ppm

Bicarbonate: 300 ppm

Alkalinity: 250 ppm

pH: 7

Chlorine: 0 ppm

Hardness: 315 ppm

Chloride: 20 ppm

Sodium: 10 ppm

Zinc: 0.1 ppm

Potassium: 0.5 ppm

Copper: 0.1 ppm

Sulfate-to-Chloride Ratio: 3.2

Residual Alkalinity: 155

Where Your Brewing Water Comes From: What Every Brewer Should Know

Water makes up over 90% of beer. Yet, for many brewers, its origin is something of an afterthought. Whether you’re a homebrewer or running a brewery, understanding where your water comes from and how it changes can be the difference between your best batch or a bad batch.

Groundwater, Surface Water, or Well?

Your brewing water typically comes from one of two main sources:

Municipal (city) water
Private wells

1. City Water Supply

Most breweries and urban homebrewers rely on water from municipal distribution systems. Municipal water is treated to meet EPA safety standards, but this treatment can significantly affect your water profile.

This water is drawn from one of two sources:

Groundwater: Pulled from aquifers, this water has filtered through layers of rock and soil, often giving it higher mineral content and natural hardness.
Surface water: Taken from lakes, rivers, or reservoirs, this water typically has lower mineral content and can vary more based on rainfall, runoff, and temperature. It may also require more chemical treatment (chloramine or chlorine).

2. Private Well Water

Some rural brewers and farmhouse-style operations use their own wells. Well water is untreated and often contains high levels of calcium, magnesium, iron, or sulfate, depending on the local rock and soil composition. While this gives some brewers a unique water profile, you are the only one monitoring it. You’ll need to test your water regularly to ensure your water is suitable for brewing.

Seasonal and Operational Shifts in City Water

Even if you rely on city water, your water chemistry isn’t always consistent. Many cities use a blended water system, meaning they use both surface and groundwater, depending on seasonal availability, drought conditions, or maintenance. Even during instances of maintenance or construction, the city might change your water supply without warning.

Municipalities aren’t required to inform customers about temporary source changes unless there’s a health concern. For brewing beer, even small shifts in your water profile can change flavor, haze stability, and mash performance.

What Brewers Should Do

Know your water profile. To notice changes in your water quality, you have to know your water profile. This will give you a starting point to check for any changes over time.
Test regularly. By using affordable DIY Test Strips, you can monitor your water quality every time you brew to make sure that your water source hasn’t changed, preventing you from ruining a batch.
Keep records. Log every water test to monitor seasonal changes in your water chemistry. If you are on city water and notice any major changes, you can reach out to your local distribution system to ask if they have changed sources.

Summary:

Water is the foundation of every beer, yet many brewers overlook where it comes from—and how it changes. Whether your water is sourced from a city distribution system or a private well, its origin directly affects your beer’s flavor, clarity, and fermentation. Municipal water can come from surface or groundwater sources, each with distinct mineral profiles. Private well water will also carry with it a distinct mineral profile due to local geology, but unlike municipal water, it requires personal oversight.

Seasonal shifts, maintenance, and droughts can cause unexpected changes in municipal water supplies. To maintain consistency in your brews, it’s critical to test your water regularly, track results, and adjust your recipes accordingly. Knowing your water profile isn’t just smart, it’s essential for making sure that every batch is your best batch.

Zinc and your brewing water

Zinc plays a vital role in yeast health and fermentation. It’s an essential nutrient that supports yeast metabolism—but when present in excess, it can become toxic and lead to undesirable metallic off-flavors in your beer.

How does Zinc affect your beer?

Zinc helps promote healthy yeast activity by accelerating fermentation and preventing stuck fermentations. It supports the yeast cell cycle, making it crucial to a successful brew. Fortunately, malt naturally contains zinc, and some of it is extracted during the mash—especially when the mash pH is on the lower end.

However, excessive zinc levels can harm yeast and disrupt fermentation. Too much zinc can also introduce harsh, metallic notes that negatively impact flavor.

Zinc Amounts in Brewing Water

While Zinc is beneficial to fermentation and yeast health, it should be in very small concentrations. The ideal range for Zinc in brewing water is 0.1 to 0.2 ppm for improved fermentation.

If zinc has levels below 0.1 ppm like with reverse osmosis water, then a zinc supplement will need to be added to assist the fermentation.

At zinc levels above 0.5 ppm, the beer will have negative taste.

Testing your Water’s Zinc Levels

To determine the zinc concentration in your water, you should use the CraftPro Master Brewer’s Test Kit.

The CraftPro In-Lab test kit will let you send in a sample to our laboratory to have it tested for zinc and 14 other parameters that are critical to brewing such as magnesium, chloride, and sulfate. As well as two brewing specific calculations that affect your water profile.

The CraftPro Master Brewer’s Test Kit makes it easy to get your results. After you order your test kit you’ll get everything you need to collect a sample and send it to our lab. Once we analyze your sample, we’ll send you an easy-to-read, electronic report with exact concentrations and calculations done for your sample.

How to reduce Zinc concentrations in brewing water

Reverse Osmosis Filtration has become extremely popular in the brewing community. This is because it will take your water profile to a blank slate. This is an effective way to remove everything you do not want in your water, but it will also remove everything beneficial.

If you are using a reverse osmosis filtration system, you will need to build your own water profile by adding the minerals back in. If you do not know where to start, you can look at our brewing profiles page to see what many popular brewing cities have as their default water.

Buying Distilled Water

If you do not want to install a filter or have access to one, but your zinc levels are too high to brew with, you can always buy RO or distilled water instead of filtering it yourself. This will be the same process as building back your own water profile with an RO system.

What to do if Zinc levels are too low

If you are using reverse osmosis or another water source with less than 0.1 ppm, then zinc supplements will be needed. This can be done using a zinc salt like zinc chloride.

Typically a very small amount of this will be necessary, there are many online brewing calculators you can use that will help you find the correct amount you need to add to get to your desired concentration.

Conclusion:

Zinc plays a critical role in the fermentation process and can help prevent stuck fermentations when in the proper concentrations. But too much can be toxic to yeast and create off, metallic flavors. Filtration or zinc salts can be used to control the concentration of zinc in your water profile.